San Gimignano – A Tuscan Paradise Where My Heart Hides

Hello my friends. 🤗 I've been going through a tough time over the past few months and sometimes you just long for a place where your heart can feel at peace. For me, that place is without a doubt in Tuscany, in a town called San Gimignano. Located about 50 kilometers from Siena, San Gimignano is famous for its medieval towers and feels like an open-air museum. Seen from above it shines like a jewel among golden fields and lush green vineyards. The last time I visited, it was olive pruning season. So it was common to see trimmed branches being dried and burned. Soon open fires will be banned in Tuscany, which is a standard rule in summer, as everything becomes highly flammable. This place is stunning and full of unusual landscapes, all year round.

I love the road to San Gimignano. It has a mystical air. Along this route there are many abandoned houses. I don’t know why, but it feels like they all belonged to one family. We drove another 2 kilometers on the SP95 road. In the distance, you can see Certaldo. By the way I’ll soon share a post about Certaldo too.

Ah, there it is: San Gimignano, my love, appearing on the horizon. It’s a very, very touristy place. In the summer parking is difficult, but since we went on a Friday, we easily found a spot. In fact there were still many open spaces. So if you're not coming during peak season, I recommend visiting San Gimignano during times like this.

To enter the city you can take the stairs. Actually there's another parking lot right in front of the gates and there’s also an elevator if needed. As you know I love talking to old stones, so I took a moment to stand by the ancient walls before heading into the town.

Between the walls of San Gimignano, beautiful flowers grow. I think they’re wild violets, but I’m not a botany expert. They’re called Saint Fina's Violets. Saint Fina once lived here and the flowers have become associated with her.

We entered the town. I’ve walked through San Gimignano many times before. That day we came just to stroll, to breathe the air and to be among these stones. I know it might sound odd or esoteric, but if past lives exist, I must have lived in San Gimignano in one of them. Because I feel completely at home here. My heart even sings. I feel like flying. This place feels like my true home. It’s an incredible feeling.

We reached Piazza Sant’Agostino. It’s always quiet and peaceful here, which is why I love it so much.

San Gimignano’s history goes back to the Etruscans. There’s confirmed evidence dating back to the 2nd century BC. Some artifacts in the archaeological museum belong to that period. The town’s golden age was during the Middle Ages because it was located on the Via Francigena, the pilgrimage route to Rome. Pilgrims from England and France passed through here on their way to visit Saint Peter’s tomb at the Vatican. This brought great wealth to San Gimignano. But in the 15th century, the plague the Black Death, hit this town like many others in Europe. Since then it never regained its former power and was annexed by the Republic of Florence.

It’s hard to get lost in San Gimignano, as the signs are well placed. By the way there’s also a Michelin-starred restaurant here. But to be honest I find the tasting menu concept a bit too pricey: three courses for 75 euros and wine costs extra. I think places like this require a certain mood, one where you think, Today I want to try something different. I wasn’t in that mood that day.

I’ve stopped eating red meat for almost a year now, which makes eating out in Tuscany a bit tricky, especially in the inland areas, where the cuisine is meat-based. But I still wear leather. I use things I bought before, but I no longer buy new leather items. For shoes, I now prefer eco-leather or fabric.

As we were talking about food choices, we found ourselves on one of San Gimignano’s most important streets: Via San Matteo. This street leads to the main square, where the town hall and cathedral are located.

Even though it wasn’t peak season, the town was quite lively. In the middle of summer, it becomes so crowded you can barely move. But walking before that rush is lovely. I saw handmade fresh pasta in some shop windows. It looked delicious and definitely seemed full of flavor.

San Gimignano is especially famous for its white wine. The traditional Tuscan wine here is Vernaccia di San Gimignano. It’s sold and offered on nearly every corner.

San Gimignano is called the "City of Towers" because many medieval towers have been preserved. There used to be 72, but now only 14 remain. Some of these are located in the main square next to the town hall and cathedral. Torre Grossa is also here and open to visitors.

Right next to the well in Piazza della Cisterna, there’s a sign saying it’s home to the world’s most famous gelateria. But gelato is a matter of taste. I’m not a big fan of that one and my friend didn’t like it either. Another gelateria called Ginestra is more highly praised.

It was school trip season. Italian and European students were visiting Florence and other Tuscan towns. It added some chaos, joy and surprise to the atmosphere.

I respect all religions, but I’ve always felt a deep reverence for Santa Fina. Standing beside the walls of her house fills my heart with peace. I don’t know how, but that’s how I feel here.

After passing by Santa Fina’s house, we reached another stunning viewpoint. Everywhere you look here is beautiful. Sometimes you even find side streets with no tourists at all. That’s when you can really feel the true spirit of the town.

I was getting hungry. If I had to choose between climbing a tower or eating, I’d pick eating. While chatting, we noticed a house with a special door. There was a small window on the door, so we peeked inside... and the view was incredible. In moments like these I feel like the happiest person in the world,just to be able to see such things.

If I could recommend only one museum, it would be Torre e Casa Campatelli. It offers an interactive experience of San Gimignano’s history, lets you explore a tower and shows the life of a Tuscan family from the late 19th to early 20th century. The last owner had no children, so she donated her home to the municipality and it was turned into a museum. We make sure to visit it every time we come.

Our search for food continued. And then we found a place I’d never visited before: the Ornithology Museum. I didn’t know such a museum existed here. The well inside is my favorite. It’s both visually beautiful and bears historic marks. You can still see the rope marks.

If you come here in winter, you can stand by that well all alone and imagine what life was like hundreds of years ago.

There’s only one tree in the town center and it caught my attention. We sat at the bar next to it. It was a bit chilly. They served Vernaccia in micro doses,barely a sip. My friend didn’t drink any because she was driving. Italy’s traffic laws have changed. Now the legal alcohol limit has been reduced, so people have to drink less. Breathalyzers are even sold in supermarkets now. We ordered bruschetta: one with burrata, tomato and basil, the other with gorgonzola, arugula and fig. They looked amazing. We also got a small cheese tasting plate and my slightly melancholic glass of Vernaccia. I took a sip and it was gone.

After that lovely lunch (by the way, we paid 43 euros for 2 bruschette, 1 glass of wine and 1 liter of water), it was time to head back. I hope you enjoyed this delightful trip. I love you all. See you very soon in new posts.

Good morning, good day, good evening... Wishing you a great week or a lovely weekend.