Part 5/5 – Two Days in Diyarbakır (Amed): The Spirit of the City (Grand Mosque & Four-Legged Minaret)

Greetings, friends! 👋

We have come to the end of our Diyarbakır adventure, but I saved the most magnificent stop at the end. We have been walking around the streets of this ancient city for two days as if we were in a time machine. After passing through those narrow, mysterious streets of the wall and breathing the mystical air of the churches, today we go to the mosques that form the true identity of the city, where those black basalt stones are sealed with prayers.

If you are ready, let's start this most peaceful and stone-scented part of our "Amed" tour.

5 Of The Islamic World. Harem-i Şerifi: Grand Mosque

The first place that comes to mind when Diyarbakır is mentioned is the Great Mosque, which is the heart, soul and summary of the city. It would be unfair to call this place just a mosque; this is almost a huge historical scene where the stone is expressed. The moment you enter the mosque, that large courtyard greets you in such a way that the noise of the city outside suddenly stops like a knife.

The atmosphere of that courtyard you see in the photos is completely different. Seljuk, Artuklu and Ottoman traces embroidered on black basalt stones appear on every corner. As you know, this is one of the oldest mosques in Anatolia and the 5th in the Islamic world. It is considered as Harem-i Şerif. In each column of the mosque, each arch has the fingerprint of a different civilization. The fact that it used to be a church (Mar Toma) further increases the cultural depth of this structure. Looking at that famous sundial in the courtyard, one can't help but think about what kind of genius Al-Jazeri worked with here centuries ago.

Time Machine of the Past: Al-Jazeri's Sundial

While walking in that large courtyard of the Grand Mosque, you will see a modest but imposing marble column in the middle. Here is the Sundial designed about 800 years ago by the great genius Al-Jazeri, who is considered the father of cybernetics. The shadow of that metal rod (shaft) you see in the photo meets the lines on the marble and processes time like an embroidery. In an era where there are no digital screens and batteries; It is an incredible engineering wonder to be able to determine the prayer times and the hours of the day in such a sensitive way with just the movement of the sun. Standing in front of this clock and watching the shadow slowly belt, it immerses one in a deep reflection on the flow of time. In an era where modern technology has not even been imagined, this small but huge detail, which reminds us that Diyarbakır is the center of science, adds a unique value to the spirit of the mosque.

Where Faith Stands Upright: Four-Legged Minaret

While walking on the streets of Sur, you suddenly come across such a structure that you say, "How does this look?" You can't go without saying. Of course, I am talking about the world-famous Four-Legged Minaret of the Sheikh Mutahhar Mosque.

This minaret is the only one in Islamic architecture! A huge body built on four thick columns. In my photos, you can see those four columns and the rise of the minaret to the sky. According to the rumor, these four pillars represent the four right sects of Islam (Hanafi, Shafi, Maliki, Hanbali). There is a belief among the people; if you pass under the columns seven times, your wish will be granted. Of course, I got carried away by that mystical atmosphere, who knows, maybe one day my wish will be granted and my way will fall here again.

Spiritual Guardians of İçkale: Hz. Süleyman Mosque and 27 Companions

The most emotional and dignified stop of our trip is undoubtedly Hz. It was Süleyman Mosque. This mosque, which is located in İçkale, is located at that critical point where Diyarbakır was conquered by Islamic armies.

The 27 Companions's Tombs right next to the mosque add a completely different spirituality to this place. You can see the names of those brave companions on the sign in the photo I shared. The fact that these people who were martyred in the conquest under the command of Iyaz Bin Ganem are lying here is the most concrete proof of why the city is called the "City of Companions". The courtyard of the mosque is so peaceful, especially in the afternoon sun... The coolness of basalt stones, the sounds of birds and the prayers of people silently... Here you understand how soft and compassionate a soul lies under that "hard" stone image of Diyarbakır.

Nasuh Pasha (Veysel Karani) Mosque: Harmony of Black and White

One of the surprises of my trip was the Nasuh Pasha Mosque (also known as Veysel Karani among the people). In the photos, you can see those charming arches of the interior and that deep silence on the red carpets. That contrast created by black basalt and white joints is one of the most stylish forms of Diyarbakır architecture. The dome structure and that peaceful light beams in it really relax people.

Towards Vedaya: My Heart Stayed in Diyarbakır

We didn't take a step in Diyarbakır for two days, I tried not to leave room. Yes, I was very tired, but it was worth every speck of fatigue. This city is not just about buildings; it is the story of a soul, a resistance, a faith and a thousand-year-old neighborhood.

Coming to the end of the Diyarbakır series, I can say this: It is not enough to "come" here, it is necessary to "live" this place. It is necessary to eat your liver, walk on its walls, drink tea against Hevsel Gardens and most importantly talk a couple of words with those sincere people.

We said "There is no Planet B" and defended how precious this world is. Here is Diyarbakır, one of the rarest jewels in that precious world. I hope I was able to take you on a small journey in those narrow streets of Diyarbakır with this 5-part series.

Thank you so much for following me and accompanying me on this adventure! See you on new routes, new stories. 🌍✨

Greetings to Diyarbakır, keep going!