Palermo - The Colorful Mosaic City of 15 Civilizations

Hello friends, I want to share my trip to Palermo the capital of Sicily. I think it’s an amazing city because I was welcomed with songs in the square. Here four Baroque facades form a small circular square. The facades are very ornate, with some statues that create a delightful scene. I must say Palermo is a very eclectic city. Historically, it developed this way because Palermo is one of the most conquered cities. While most cities take pride in being unconquered, it’s the opposite here. They take pride in being conquered many times. With each conquest came different civilizations and each left lasting marks.

For example, while the Spanish in Toledo take pride in the fusion of different civilizations, Palermo boasts traces of 15 different ones. First came the Phoenicians followed by the Greeks, then the Roman Empire, Carthaginians, Byzantines, Saracens, French, Spanish and finally in 1860, Garibaldi incorporated Palermo into the Kingdom of Italy. Sicily was once a separate kingdom and the city has a colorful appearance.

Just two steps away from the Baroque district, we entered an area filled with tourist attractions. First we saw the famous Fontana Pretoria. This fountain was originally made for Florence but was later dismantled into over 600 pieces and transported here to be rebuilt. It’s a two-tiered pool with numerous statues, most of which are nude, leading locals to sometimes call it the Fountain of Shame. This name also relates to the misinterpretation of some mythological representations by the public.

Right behind the fountain is church of Saint Catherine. A little deeper into the area, we encountered more significant religious sites. First, there’s the Martorana Church. Unfortunately, I couldn’t go inside because it was Sunday and had very limited visiting hours, but it looked fascinating from the outside. Inside, it houses Byzantine mosaics and serves as an Orthodox church, which is impressive. This is also where the famous Sicilian marzipan dessert, Frutta Martorana, was invented.

Another interesting church is Saint Cataldo Church, notable for its Arab-style decoration and unique design. With its three red domes, this church is considered a significant architectural symbol of historic Palermo. It’s also believed to be associated with a military order, as there’s a red Maltese cross on its doors. A bit further we saw the San Giuseppe dei Teatini Church, which is just a Catholic church. There are indeed many churches here, but the Martorana and Saint Cataldo churches are quite different from what we’re used to seeing in Italy and are very intriguing.

And Palermo has a monument dedicated to the mafia. This monument is devoted to the history of the mafia and the anti-mafia struggle. The mafia first emerged in the 19th century to protect orange plantations but eventually expanded into drug trafficking, prostitution and other illicit activities. The photo exhibit includes tragic events and heroes related to the mafia, shedding light on this dark chapter of history.

Honestly, I wasn’t expecting much of a surprise from the Palermo Cathedral because, after seeing so many cathedrals, it’s hard to find something innovative. However, I was genuinely impressed by the building, which showcases a fascinating mix of eclectic styles. Here you can find Arab-Norman architecture, Gothic elements and even Classicism all combined in one structure. This blend is the result of seven centuries of continuous renovations, restorations and additions.

The southern façade, facing the enchanting square is particularly intriguing, as it features a combination of various styles. Passing through the portico that leads to the cathedral, you’ll notice a Quranic verse inscribed on a column to the left. This detail reflects the inclusion of Islamic elements in the architecture.

The western façade on the other hand, is entirely Gothic, specifically Catalan Gothic, showcasing Spanish influence. Interestingly the bell tower isn’t directly connected to the main building. Instead it seems to be part of the bishop’s palace. The smaller bell towers frame the western façade beautifully. Inside the cathedral leans more toward classical style, emphasizing the influence of Classicism.

The cathedral is also the resting place of Sicily’s kings and houses the sacred relics of Palermo’s patron saint, Santa Rosalia. Her chapel is quite ornate, featuring a stunning silver altar that is amazing. To the left of the main altar, you’ll find the Chapels of Holy Communion and the Crucifixion. One of these altars, made from lapis lazuli is particularly luxurious and eye-catching.

In Palermo’s historic district, the Norman Palace (Palazzo dei Normanni) stands as another architectural marvel. This palace built by the Normans, features eclectic mosaics that are worth admiring. It also houses an observatory and the dome at the top, contrary to what one might assume, is not part of a chapel but belongs to the observatory.

Another significant landmark is the Teatro Massimo, which according to some sources, is the largest theater in Italy and the second largest in Europe. However, the criteria for this ranking are somewhat unclear. Built in the 19th century in a classical style, the theater is named after Italy’s first king Vittorio Emanuele II. It is also famously featured in the Godfather trilogy.

Lastly we visited Palermo’s Botanical Garden, established in the 16th century and later expanded into a park showcasing tropical and subtropical plants. The garden features exotic flora, aquatic plants and a massive ficus tree, making it a unique and serene spot.

Despite the occasional chaos in Palermo’s streets, this living atmosphere is part of the city’s charm. Palermo’s architectural and historical treasures are remarkable and I believe this city is worth exploring in every sense.