Córdoba Diary - Day 3

Hello friends. If there is one thing I’ve learned from all my travels over the years, it’s that the most unforgettable memories are usually hidden in places you can barely find on the map. In my experience the cities we visit without great expectations, those that remain on the edge of our radar are often the ones that surprise us the most. Córdoba in Spain’s Andalusia region, fits this description perfectly, a city that completely overturns expectations. It’s almost unbelievable that I had never heard of the Córdoba Mosque-Cathedral, the Mezquita before this trip. What’s even more surprising is this: almost everyone knows Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, yet many people are unaware of this architectural wonder in Córdoba. The Mezquita welcomed me with an entirely different kind of energy. Not only its immense scale, but also its colorful and vibrant atmosphere left a deep impression on me.

The most mind-blowing feature of the Mezquita is the enormous and ornate Catholic cathedral built right in the middle of a forest of Moorish arches. As you walk inside, the architectural contrast creates a literal sense of dissonance. In just a few steps, you move from arches that make you feel as if you’re in Morocco to suddenly standing beneath the magnificent dome of a typical Roman Catholic church. Although historical sources say there are more than 850 columns, the sea of columns, what I estimate to be around 500 to 600, that creates the atmosphere inside, contrasted with the cathedral’s grand dome, is astonishing. The scale of this cathedral is so immense that it can be directly compared to the finest and most monumental structures in Rome. This abrupt transition makes the Mezquita really unique.

When we arrived in Córdoba, the thermometer read 43 degrees Celsius. Although that number sounds intimidating, it was surprisingly bearable. The contrast became even clearer when I compared it to the weather in Málaga, where we had been just a few days earlier. Despite temperatures being 10–12 degrees lower in Málaga, the high humidity made the air far more oppressive and uncomfortable. Córdoba’s dry heat, on the other hand, made the extreme temperature much easier to handle. It was also interesting to see how locals adapt to this climate: while the streets quiet down during the day, life really begins at night. The most important lesson I took from this experience was that the secret to coping with this dry heat is proactive hydration. Even if you don’t feel thirsty, constantly drinking water makes the day much more enjoyable.

Eager to try local flavors, we decided to visit a restaurant listed in the Michelin Guide under the recommended category, though it hasn’t yet earned a star. Unfortunately, this turned into a practical lesson that a famous place isn’t always the best option. Over the course of our meal, which lasted a total of 1 hour and 40 minutes, the service was incredibly slow. We ordered two different main dishes and the second was served a full 20–30 minutes after the first arrived at the table. While the food itself was tasty, the €64 bill was definitely not worth such slow and disorganized service. In the end we concluded that with the right ingredients, we could have had a much better experience at the place where we were staying.

It would be a great injustice to see Córdoba as nothing more than the Mezquita. The city itself is a destination for exploration. Our host’s words "you can walk around comfortably at night, it’s very safe here" perfectly captured the city’s calm atmosphere. When we moved away from the tourist crowds and crossed to the opposite side of the Roman Bridge, we were rewarded with the most captivating view of the Mezquita and the Alcázar. Once again, this proved that the most beautiful moments are often hidden in unexpected places. When you set aside the usual routes and wander into the side streets, you’re rewarded with towers you hadn’t noticed before and lively squares. Córdoba’s local atmosphere makes it not just a tourist stop, but a living, breathing and deeply impressive city.

The less you know about Córdoba, the more it will surprise you, a city full of unexpected delights. It promises an unforgettable experience far beyond expectations. I can sum up my admiration for the city in a single sentence: even just for the Mezquita Cathedral alone, it’s worth coming not only to this city, but to all of Spain.