Three Days in Lyon - A City Full of Surprises

Hello fellow travelers. I recently visited Lyon. It is well known after Paris but still mysterious. My expectations weren’t high before arriving. Some people had described it as a small version of Paris, while others warned me it was full of immigrants and trash. But after spending three days and nights there, I can confidently say this is a city with its own spirit and a real pleasure to explore.

Lyon sits at the meeting point of the Rhône and Saône rivers. The city center is built on a peninsula. The first thing that caught my eye was the scenery. Thanks to its hilly structure, there’s a viewpoint almost everywhere. I walked so much, but it was worth it. Watching the city from above was an experience I can’t put into words.

If climbing hills isn’t for you, I’d recommend taking the funicular based on my own experience. It’s a local invention and took me straight up to one of the city’s landmarks, the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière. This church amazed me with both its appearance and location. Looking down on the view from up there, I caught myself thinking how glad I was to have come.

Lyon does have some similarities to Paris. For example, right next to the basilica stands a replica of the Eiffel Tower. It’s 86 meters tall and not distant like the one in Paris, it was right in front of me. Climbing it isn’t possible though, since it’s used for television signals.

Still Lyon isn’t as crowded or flashy as Paris. This simplicity made it feel more welcoming. It has a more livable vibe, far from the tourist chaos. The graffiti and murals tucked away in the backstreets made me feel like I was wandering through an open-air museum.

A bit past the basilica, I came across an ancient Roman amphitheater. It’s still standing. I felt deeply immersed in history here. Then I headed to Old Lyon. With its cathedral, narrow streets and stone houses, it transported me to another century.

The inside of the cathedral was impressive, but what amazed me most was the astronomical clock. I couldn’t take photos because of the Sunday service, but what I saw with my own eyes was more than enough. This clock, dating back to the 14th century, carries an elegance that goes beyond time.

If you enjoy seeing art out in the streets, Lyon is the place for you. The murals not only beautify the city, they also tell its story. In frescos like The City Library and The Wall of the Weavers, Lyon’s cultural heritage comes alive. Faces like the Lumière Brothers and Antoine de Saint-Exupéry seemed to be peeking at me from the walls.

For anyone curious about silk, I have a few recommendations: Atelier des Canuts, Maison des Tisserands, and the Textile Museum. The more I learned about how silk shaped the city’s history, the more I felt I understood the fabric of Lyon itself.

One of Lyon’s most unique and mysterious sides is its traboule passageways. These hidden paths run through buildings, linking one street to another. It would be a lie to say I wasn’t a little spooked while walking through them. Some are dark, others bright, but all of them gave me a sense of adventure. Walking through this city became a real exploration.

Lyon also has a completely different face in the Confluence district. A former industrial zone has been fully transformed. It now features modern architecture, spacious parks, shopping centers and even a science museum. Was everything perfect? Not really. I wasn’t too impressed by the museum’s exterior, and the point where the rivers merge didn’t quite meet my expectations. Still, witnessing this transformation was inspiring.

Another thing I really appreciated was how the riverside roads, once highways, have been turned into pedestrian zones. Walking paths, cafes, bike routes ... everything seemed to say this city is yours.

I have mixed feelings about the opera building. Its modern roof sitting on a classical structure reminded me of a shopping mall. Some might like it, but it didn’t grow on me. On the other hand, the city hall right across the street reflected classic French style beautifully. A horse statue in the inner courtyard appeared to be running in place, which was a fun detail to watch.

Places like Place des Terreaux, Bellecour and Rue Victor Hugo lie at the heart of both the city’s history and daily life. Still, I noticed some cleanliness issues in a few areas. The surroundings of the Roman ruins, in particular, felt neglected and that bothered me.

Regarding accommodation, to be honest hotel prices in Lyon are quite close to those in Paris. I rented a small apartment in a suburb called Sunfo, about 15 kilometers from the center. The train took only ten minutes to reach downtown. The neighborhood had a bit of a ghetto vibe, but I had no issues with transportation and it was very budget-friendly.

Postal and delivery services work differently here. Deliveries are made with electric cargo bikes. Quiet, eco-friendly and super practical. These bikes carry large containers and move through the streets almost unnoticed. Being able to reach everything without needing a car is already a big plus, and this system completes it perfectly. The work that used to be done by people on small motorbikes seventy years ago is now being carried out by electric bikes. This, to me, is a great example of how Lyon blends past and future.

It’s not Paris. It never will be. But it offers something you won’t find in Paris, a feeling of connection and discovery. Streets that tell stories through murals, hilltop churches, hidden passages, neighborhoods transformed by modern design. All in one place, in one city.

Should you visit Lyon? Absolutely. It’s a city that reveals its many stories one street at a time.