Modernism by the Rhine - Discovering Düsseldorfs Architectural Gems

Hello friends. Today I want to share with you a pleasant walk I took in Düsseldorf. It is a fascinating city where history and modernity coexist. On this trip, I focused on modern architecture and started my tour with a symbolic building called Kö-Bogen. I chose this building because it has a very original design. More than thirty thousand hornbeam shrubs have been planted on its facade. This plant, from the birch family, was chosen because it is easy to maintain. If all these shrubs were lined up, they would stretch for eight kilometers. The building stands out not only with its architecture but also with its surroundings. The architects task was to harmonize this modern structure with the existing urban fabric. Nearby there are two important post-war modernist buildings: the glass-and-metal Dreischeibenhaus and the Schauspielhaus theatre from the same era.

The architect Ingenhoven managed to integrate this new structure into the environment both aesthetically and functionally. It also enters into a kind of dialogue with the park next to it and the famous magnolia trees. As always, a question comes to mind when it comes to green facades. How do they deal with the insects, butterflies and spiders living in those shrubs? Of course, this is more of a rhetorical question, but I’m always curious about how visual beauty works in practice.

Another detail I initially missed during my exploration was the small green-roofed pavilion on the top floor. Watching the whole complex from up there is quite enjoyable. I definitely recommend going up for the view.

This area is generally rich in modern architecture. It is located right in the center of the city, very close to Königsallee, Düsseldorf’s main shopping avenue. This is a beautiful boulevard lined with luxury stores. The fact that modern and historical structures blend so naturally in this city is truly impressive.

Our next stop is Kunstsammlung Nordrhein-Westfalen or the North Rhine-Westphalia Art Collection. It is said to reflect a fusion of modernism and postmodernism. The modernist features include an open floor plan, a ground level supported by columns and ribbon windows. The postmodern elements are curved facades made of polished black granite and walls covered in colorful tiles.

This building also fits very well with its historic surroundings. Directly across stands the Kunsthalle, or Art Hall, another fine example of post-war modernism. It belongs to the same period as Dreischeibenhaus and Schauspielhaus. During my visit there was a Marc Chagall exhibition there, but I didn’t go since we had already seen his museum in France.

After a short walk, we reached the banks of the Rhine River. In Düsseldorf, the river makes a beautiful curve. On the opposite side, there is a beach and on this side, a long promenade and many beer gardens. Here, the famous local beer called Altbier is served in small, elegant glasses. If you like beer, it is definitely worth a try.

There has always been a rivalry between Düsseldorf and Cologne. Which is better, Düsseldorf’s Altbier or Cologne’s Kölsch? The decision is yours.

From here you can also see the city’s historic district. Many well-preserved buildings are located there. Also nearby is the Landtag NRW, the parliament of the state of North Rhine-Westphalia. It is another interesting building with modernist features.

The city's most iconic structure is the Rheinturm or Rhine Tower. This tower dominates the city’s skyline. If you go up, you get a bird’s-eye view of Düsseldorf. The view is especially beautiful at sunset. Another interesting building is the Hetjens Museum, Düsseldorf’s ceramics museum. It is a structure linked by glass between two historic buildings. The museum was founded in 1909 by industrialist Laurenz Heinrich Hetjens. It houses a large collection covering eight thousand years of ceramic history. This includes pieces from Ancient Greece, Rome, the Americas, the Middle East, China, Japan and Siam. European ceramics are also represented, especially Meissen porcelain and English and French examples.

There are also works from the post-1950 modern ceramic movement and Bauhaus artists. Among the tile samples, you’ll find the beloved Portuguese Azulejos and Moorish Zellij mosaics. One installation is even as large as a traditional bathhouse. That’s why this place is a must-see for both architecture and ceramic lovers.

Our final stop is KIT or Art in the Tunnel. From the outside, you only see a small café pavilion, but when you go down the stairs, you discover a contemporary art gallery nestled between tunnels. The project was developed by the Düsseldorf based studio Fritz Schmal and Baum. Baum is no longer part of the team. But I hope he is continuing his career successfully.

During my visit, there was an exhibition by an artist named Melanie Loureiro. Her inspiration came from the Netflix documentary series Our Planet, narrated by Morgan Freeman. The exhibit features flowers, insects, caterpillars, butterflies, buds or in short the small wonders of nature. The lighting design in the gallery is so well done that it feels like you’re in daylight, not underground. Melanie and her colleague Clara created a small garden at the entrance. You can sit on cushions, relax with music or meditate if you wish.

If you come to Düsseldorf, all the places mentioned here are worth a visit. I hope you’ve found a route that suits you on this journey. The city is charming, enjoyable and in my opinion, definitely worth seeing.

See you on the next trip. 🤗