El Escorial - A Palace, A Monastery and An Art Gallery

Hello friends. Once again we are in Spain and once again, we are near Madrid. In this post I will talk about my visit to another significant royal structure: El Escorial.

El Escorial is a palace, a monastery, a seminary and college and a church all at once. Everything is combined in one place. With this structure Philip the second aimed to showcase Spain’s true position in the world during the 16th century. At that time Spain was indeed a powerful empire with grand ambitions, exerting vast influence through its colonies in the Americas and Latin America. Moreover, during Philip the second’s reign, the Philippines in Asia were named after him and became a Spanish colony.

So, how did the idea of building this monastery, now a vast complex—come about? Philip the second was at war with several nations of the time, including the Dutch, the French and the English. During the Battle of Saint-Quentin in the Flemish lands, he vowed to build a monastery if he emerged victorious. After winning the battle, he fulfilled his promise. Since the victory coincided with the feast day of Saint Lawrence, the monastery was dedicated to him. Saint Lawrence is believed to have been martyred by being burned on a gridiron, which is why the monastery's layout was designed to resemble a grill.

The location choice is also quite intriguing. Philip the second wanted the structure to be in a completely isolated area, surrounded by untouched wilderness without any nearby villages or settlements. After a long search, a suitable site was found at the foothills of the Sierra de Guadarrama Mountains. The region boasted breathtaking landscapes and Philip also planned to use it for hunting.

The architect appointed for the construction was Juan Bautista de Toledo. However, during the building process, his student Juan de Herrera took over the project and completed it. The general architectural style resembles Italian architecture more than traditional Spanish design. Notably the complex’s main church was inspired by St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican and bears no resemblance to the typical Gothic churches. The church’s dome reaches a height of 91 meters and its interior is richly decorated. The ceilings are adorned with frescoes and artworks by both Spanish and international artists are displayed inside.

And there are numerous works by Italian artists. A particularly striking piece is a crucifix sculpted from Carrara marble by the Italian sculptor Vincenzo Tacchini. The altar is also exceptionally grand, adorned with paintings of sacred figures and crafted from various types of Spanish marble.

The crypt inside the church houses the Royal Pantheon, a stone masterpiece built in 1617. Today, it contains the tombs of all the kings of Spain and the queen mothers who were heirs to the throne. Only Philip V and Ferdinand VI were not buried here. In the upper left corner of the Crucifix, the tomb of Charles V can be found and directly below it lies the tomb of his son, Philip the second. The decoration is extremely impressive; the walls are covered with jade and marble, while the details are made of cast bronze.

Opposite this monumental tomb is the modern Pantheon of Infantes, built in the 19th century. This is where princes, princesses and the siblings of kings who did not inherit the throne are buried. Apparently some were more cherished than others, as their tombs are more elaborate, while simpler marble sarcophagi were chosen for others.

In general the El Escorial complex is like an art gallery in itself. It houses an immense collection of paintings, featuring works by Italian masters such as Titian, Tintoretto and Veronese. Of course, Spanish artists are not forgotten; works by El Greco and other important painters are among the most valuable pieces of the collection.

Afterward we arrived at the Royal Palace. Known in Spanish as the Palacio de los Austrias this building has some particularly remarkable features. Firstly, it is considered the coldest palace in Spain; regardless of the temperature outside, the interior remains consistently cool. Another interesting feature is the famous Solar Meridian, a line placed on the floor by a Hungarian mathematician, which was used to determine the exact time of noon based on the sun's position.

Inside the palace there is also a portable throne used for Philip the second’s final journey. In the last days of his life, the king was carried on this throne to the monastery, where he passed away. The palace's decoration is generally lavish; the walls are adorned with tapestries, the ceilings with paintings and ceramic panels and intricate inlays embellish the floors. The decorative additions made during the Bourbon dynasty further enhanced the grandeur of the space, with crystal chandeliers and furniture from this period standing out. However, as the palace rooms have taken on different functions over time, it is difficult to determine their original purposes. Today many rooms appear indistinguishable from one another, resembling a series of guest salons.

One of the most important sections of the complex is the Royal Library. Some experts believe that its collection is as valuable as that of the Vatican Library. An interesting detail is that the books are arranged with their spines facing inward. It is said that this was done to better preserve the bindings. However, another theory suggests that the books currently on display are actually copies of the originals, making special preservation measures unnecessary.

The library also exhibits various navigational instruments and globes. The ceiling decorations are particularly striking, featuring frescoes by Giovanni Battista Tibaldi and his daughter. At the far ends of the ceiling, theology and philosophy are depicted. Philosophy is surrounded by figures such as Aristotle, Plato and Seneca, while the theology section is mainly represented by clergy. And the frescoes on the ceiling include muses symbolizing different literary disciplines.

The Royal Library opens into the Royal Gallery, which connects the Habsburg Palace to the Bourbon Palace. This gallery was originally built as a space where queens would walk with their daughters. Today, this section is known as the Hall of Battles featuring paintings of Philip the second’s most significant victories. Scenes from the Battle of Saint-Quentin are displayed between the windows, while a large mural along the wall depicts another victory of the Spanish against the Moors near Granada during the Reconquista. Through these frescoes, Philip the second aimed to associate himself with Spain’s historic kings and emphasize his inheritance of a victorious legacy from his ancestors.

Our brief journey to El Escorial, the Royal Pantheon, the Royal Palace, the monastery and the library comes to an end here. Indeed this is a unique place that deserves your attention! If you ever find yourself in Madrid, I highly recommend visiting here after exploring the city's most important tourist spots.

And you can venture a little outside of Madrid to explore cities like Toledo, Segovia or Ávila. Spain is an incredibly impressive country in terms of its history and culture and even if you're in the capital, there are many places to discover in the surrounding areas.