Trekking on a Frozen River in India (Zanskar river)

If you rotate the globe, you will see many countries in this world, if you see this number on Google, then Google tells 195 countries in the world. In these 195 countries, if we look at Asia, then there is a country named India, now let's zoom a bit and in the north of India there is a state named 'Ladakh'. If you have not heard Ladakh then I think you should search Ladakh on Google before reading this post further. After doing google I can say with claim that 3 out of 5 people would like to come here.

Porters crossing zanskar river in Ladakh region

I don't know about the rest of the world but the temperature in Ladakh goes from -15 to -50 in winter. In Siachen located in Ladakh, the minimum temperature drops to -50 degrees. This place is also called Mars Planet, it is also called Buddhist land, it is also called dry desert, this one place has many names. The name of the capital of Ladakh is Leh, Leh is situated at an altitude of 3500 meters above sea level.

Starting my trekking from Chilling

There are many trekking routes around Leh. Earlier Leh was very famous among foreigners, but now we Indians have also explored Leh a lot. In this search, I also found a place named 'Zanskar Valley'. This valley is nowadays known for trekking, rafting and Chadar trek. The most bizarre trek is the Chadar trek, the Zanskar river freezes in winter and people trek on it. This trek is about 100 km and at that time the temperature while walking on the river remains from -20 to -35 degree.

Local Porters on start point for a long and frozen journey

I have also gone to do this trek once. Today we are going to talk about this trek. In winter, Leh can be reached only by flight because in winter so much snow falls that the Ladakh road gets cut off from the rest of the world for at least 4-5 months. I get some savings by booking flight tickets in advance. I complete the preparation for the Chadar trek by buying five layers of clothes for the top and three layers for the bottom.

I land in Leh in 1:50 hours by flight, where the temperature is said to be -15 degrees in the flight. At such a low temperature and at such a height, the body behaves a little differently. I stay at a local in Leh. His house is small but very warm. Here people keep the heaters on for 24 hours in winter. I stay here for two days to acclimatize my body. The next day, after doing necessary shopping for the trek, I descend to Chilling on the third day by taxi from where the trek begins.

When the river becomes National Highway

I am in Leh for the first time in winter, there are very few people here and all those who are seen here have come to walk on the frozen river. Tourists have brought local guides and porters with them but I am alone. I have never had enough money to take a luxury trip. Well I have no idea of the surroundings and the way here. When I ask a local guide present there about the way, he says “You have to walk on this river which you can see, and keep walking till you reach the village”.

The locals have tied the tourists' luggage to their local sleds and, holding the sled ropes in their hands, are pulling the sleds along the sheet. The track had just started when it came to know that the frozen bed may break from some places... In such a case one has to change the route or cross the broken path by climbing over the banks of the river. Local porters cross the river only after breaking the frozen layer of ice. I too walk behind them and cross the broken river safely.

Well, I didn't tell that I am wearing gumboots on my feet, my feet are not getting wet in water because of gumboots. At some places the river is not completely frozen, so I walk on the little water that has accumulated on the banks. What a wonderful experience to walk on a frozen river. There are long white colored lines on the frozen surface of the river, looking at them, it looks as if someone has spread marble below the river.

I started my journey at 11 in the morning and by 4 in the evening I reach a place called Sumdo, after pitching my tent I prepare dinner for myself on a portable stove which I eat and go to sleep at 6 o'clock. The temperature went to -28 degrees at night. But thanks to Rent's sleeping bag which I took on rent from Leh. The double layer sleeping bag will not allow cold till -35 degree, so the shopkeeper told me.

First day camp

Next morning after eating dry fruits, I pack the tent and go ahead. Running of sleds has formed a line on the frozen river, I am getting the feeling of walking on a highway. There are dark clouds in the sky, maybe snow will fall, it is said that there is no greenery in Ladakh, so very little snow falls here. Walking on frozen ice is a bit difficult, as soon as you try to walk fast, you slip and fall. Today is the second day and I have probably fallen 10 times, thankfully I didn't get any serious injury from the fall.

Broken river

At 4:30 I reach Shirkh Yongma where tents of other tourists are set up, I also set up my tent here today. The locals here talk to me and invite me for dinner. I heartily accept his invitation. After having dinner with them at 7:30, I get into my sleeping bag and go to sleep. Till now I have covered 37 kms on this track.

Camping day 02

On the third day, the sun comes for a short time, so today I sleep for a long time. Around 9 o'clock I pack my tent and leave for my destination. When the layer of ice has broken on the way, people are walking from the shore when a local boy slips and falls into the river with his sledge. Thankfully he is not hurt and is taken out of the water safely. By evening I reach Dib Yongma. I have to spend the night here, so I immediately set up my tent. First of all, I make hot black tea on the stove and drink it, after that I prepare dinner for myself.

Life inside the tent when outside its -20 degrees

Next morning people are going back, means everyone is going back. I ask what happened, then it is known that there has been a land slide ahead, due to which the frozen river has completely broken. Can't go ahead, the road is closed. Today I had to reach Lingshed village and come back from there. But now I also have to go back because it takes 2-3 days for the river to freeze as the locals said.

Alone myself of frozen river, walking and talking to mountains

The food on the way i cooked for myself

Had to break the frozen river to get drinking water

I pack the tent and start walking back. On the way there is a frozen waterfall where I click photos and eat chocolates brought with me. I keep the chocolate in my jacket pocket, otherwise it will harden and turn into stone due to the low temperature. One night I forgot to keep the water bottle in the sleeping bag, so it froze in such a way that it is not taking the name of thawing since two days. Every night I sleep with the camera battery in my sleeping bag, wrapping the camera in warm clothes.

On my way back, I go to Sumdo and set up my tent, tomorrow I will reach Leh. There is sorrow for not completing the journey, but there is also pride in having reached here alone. The next day from Chilling, I board a car with locals who drop me off at Leh. After coming back I stay in the same home stay. Staying here for two days, I reach my home on the third day by flight.

I came back to Leh in this car

So that was a remote trip, hope you enjoyed it.

My sucksack with my home

Black tea

When one local fell down in river

At locals kitchen

Here i got a treat from locals

When sun enters into the frozen valley

Thats how you walk on river side when its not compeletly frozen

Disclaimer: All photos are clicked by me with Canon and Sony point and shoot cameras. Photos have been edited in Lightroom. The above English text has been originally translated from Hindi with the help of Google Translate. I am very happy and proudly say this entire post is AI free.
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