Wandering Brazil XI: São Sebastião

Welcome back to my Brazilian travel journal! Let me take you to another place where you’d hardly run into a foreigner—perfect for travelers like us. The coastal town of São Sebastião is the only gateway to Ilhabela, which I covered in my last few Brazilian posts. Regional and interstate buses drop you at the ferry port if you plan to visit the island, so many people skip the town altogether. Others take advantage of its more affordable accommodations and restaurants, staying here and catching the free pedestrian ferry—running 24/7—to the island. Rumour has it, though, that the beaches around São Sebastião—particularly the two bays southeast of town—easily rival those of Ilhabela. I can’t judge; we skipped them.

Frankly, we almost skipped São Sebastião too, focusing solely on Ilhabela—if not for our host’s recommendations. At first glance, the town might seem like a dull industrial harbour with little to offer. But leave the port behind and stroll along the promenade—your opinion will change. It's a foodie’s paradise. Starving after exploring the waterfalls (and drooling like Pavlov’s dogs), we passed dozens of restaurants and bars before reaching the venue we were recommended, Família Restaurante, at the far end of the promenade. It was worth the walk. Just one caveat: the portions are enormous. Order one meal for two, and you’ll barely make a dent. We shared two whole fish with fried plantain, a bowl of sauce, and another of rice—allegedly a menu for one. They even provide extra plates so you can mix everything yourself.

They also serve beer from “the best craft brewery on the north coast,” as the menu proudly declares. What a coincidence, huh?

Since Brazil is known for its coffee and cocoa plantations, we couldn’t resist a sweet treat (also, it was still raining when we’d finished our meal, so we didn't feel like walking—valid excuse, right?). Sereia, or “Mermaid,” was impossible to pass up. And not just because of her song.

Now, about the town itself—as our bus departed late at night, we only had a brief wander. Though Brazil is often perceived as dangerous after dark, São Sebastião felt safe. Homeless people do camp in the local amphitheatre, and there are a few nooks best avoided, but nothing to actually worry about.

Separated from the mainland by a mountain range that catches the Atlantic winds and rains, São Sebastião has kept its colonial architecture, with the baroque Church of São Sebastião as its most significant landmark.

Since it was Christmas, a nativity scene stood in front. However, Baby Jesus was missing.

Fortunately, the old town looked classy despite the persistent drizzle.

Camara Municipal, the townhall.

Before heading to the bus station, we roamed the pier with old cannons guarded by a whale so dangerous it needed to be caged.

Ilhabela loomed in the background, its peaks just peering above the clouds.

And, of course, there were Christmas lights.

And that’s it for São Sebastião. Next stop: Rio de Janeiro. Time to be a bit touristy for a change!

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39 comments
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Bzzzrrr, que lugar mais legal! São Sebastião, a apenas uma hora de SP, é um segredo guardado. As praias, os restaurantes, a pérgula... é um paraíso para viajantes. Nem é preciso ir para Ilhabela, parece! E a comida, buuuuz! As porções enormes, é como se estivessem falando português:) Obrigada pelas dicas, @godfish!

#hivebr

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One thing I've come to know about Brazil is that it has a huge nightlife infused with culture.

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It's really a beautiful place, the view looks perfect, check out some very entertaining photos❤️🙏

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Nice findings roaming around São Sebastião. I think it's nice to have some me time, looking at those Ilhabela loomed in the pier. I find it relaxing.

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Very beautiful place. And your photography is very beautiful. Did you use a camera or a phone because the photos look very beautiful.

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These are just mobile snapshots.

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Those are looking very awesome 👍 is it Apple or Samsung? Aur anything else?

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Unfortunately I never visited Brazil my hubby was luckier he went to Brazil many times In his young days San sabastao looks an amazing place so colorful and full of cool experience! Not only the culinary ones 💕

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Do give it a shot then, Brazil is quite an affordable country to spend your vacation :) and it is definitely worth it!

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It looks short - I like that. As in no tall skyscrapers breaking the horizon line :) Very picturesque (and you did, indeed, take plenty of pictures :D). It's very rare to find someone to travel with who shares your non-touristy attitude - lucky you. All the better to explore routes and things off the traditional beaten path, eh?

Thanks for the vicarious bit of travel. :)

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Being a tourist? Phew!

This nook could be easily brimming with Americans, if they ever dared to travel abroad :) having an amazing month for what a day someplace nice would cost back home. Yet fortunately, it’s still there to explore for us Europeans :)

Of the beaten path? Like a monastery in the mountains, with a charming lake perhaps? Hell yeah, here I am!

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Wonder why so few Americans go over there. I think I'd be on the next plane, especially if I lived in the south. So damn close, seems a shame not to.

Like a monastery in the mountains, with a charming lake perhaps? Hell yeah, here I am!

And that is how @godfish became @monkfish :)

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It doesn’t take much longer from. The north :)

Oh yes! You know my soft spot for the monky business :))

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I'm sure you'll make a fine monk-valley-wandering-person-ecstatic-bather-person ;)

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I love all the bright colors! This looks like it was a really awesome trip! Definitely something you will remember for a long time!

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All my trips are to be remembered for a long time :))

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(Edited)

Jestlipak tam někde má pomník i Thomas Cavendish. Někde jsem četl, že tu oblast na své druhé cestě dost vyplenil, on i když anglický admirál a objevitel byl také pirát. Některé zdroje píší, že na zpáteční cestě od tohoto města do Anglie zemřel, jiné, že jej jeho vlastní posádka pověsila na ráhno. V každém případě to tam pak hodně pocuchali francouzští bukanýři

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Nikdo se tu o něm ani slovem nezmínil, ale kolem Ilhabely je několik tuctů potopených lodí.

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(Edited)

Byla to celkem divoká oblast. Hlavně v 16 století. Strategicky dobře položená oblast. Daly se odtamtud dělat nájezdy kolem argentinského pobřeží, bylo tam velké tržiště s otroky, takže i dost peněz. Lakave místo pro tehdejší piráty Historie některých mist někdy bývá hodně akční. Něco jsem našel TADY Ale četl jsem o tom už dost dávno. Osudy slavných pirátů mě v mládí dost bavily.

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One of the things that I always want to eat when I got to Brazil is fresh fish. Just went there for 10 days to visit my parents and I ate good fish! I have a former school colleague who is an owner of fish boats, so my parents get some nice fresh fish from him!

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Fish are friends, not food! (I can, cannibalism is considered good manners)

:))

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(Edited)

Hhahahahaha you are the god of them! You need to protect them😝

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Hiya, @lauramica here, just swinging by to let you know that this post made it into our Honorable Mentions in Travel Digest #2558.

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Bring that whale to Hive man 😂

So, contrary to rumors, not everywhere in Brazil is dangerous. Everywhere in the world there are some places you shouldn't go at night.

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I mean in Rio or Sao Paolo, there are vast areas to avoid, but this place was safe.

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I thoroughly enjoyed reading your travel journal entry about São Sebastião! Your detailed descriptions really brought the town to life, especially the way you transformed the initial impression of it being a dull industrial harbor into a hidden gem full of charm. I also appreciate how you shared the food experience at Família Restaurante, highlighting the portions and the local beer – it made me feel like I was there with you. The little anecdotes about the town’s safety, its colonial architecture, and the quirky nativity scene gave the post a personal touch, making it not only informative but also fun to read. Your writing has definitely sparked my interest in visiting São Sebastião!

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