Cappadocia, Turkey - Hot Air Balloons, Valleys and Ancient Underground Cities

Hello friends. Today I am taking you to one of the most fascinating places on our planet: Cappadocia. It offers a unique historical heritage with underground cities stretching deep into the earth. And a natural landscape that has formed over thousands of years and continues to change. Today I will tell you all about this UNESCO World Heritage site and most importantly, how you can visit and have an unforgettable experience here.

This place is in the very heart of Turkey. More precisely in the Central Anatolia Region. Cappadocia is not a single village or city. On the contrary, it covers a large area with many different regions. Of course, there are a few main centers that stand out. The most important one is Göreme National Park and the valleys around it. This is where most of the hotels are located. Countless viewpoints are within walking distance. And that is exactly why many tourists experience the most romantic sunrises of their lives right here.

We came here by plane from Antalya. There are several ways to reach this region, but the most common and comfortable is by air. That's because this area is quite far from Turkey’s other tourist hubs, yet domestic flights are very affordable. Round-trip flights from Istanbul or Antalya can be found for around 80 to 100 euros. There are two airports close to Göreme. The nearest is in Nevşehir, while Kayseri Airport is a bit farther. I flew into Kayseri. There is no direct bus from either airport to Göreme, but nearly all hotels offer shuttle services with comfortable minibuses. You need to book this in advance. You can also book it independently of your hotel, the price is the same. As of 2025 the cost per person is around 15 to 20 euros.

When people think of Cappadocia, the first thing that often comes to mind is hot air balloons. Many believe that hundreds of balloons take off every day and that’s the main reason they come here. But actually that’s not quite the case. First the balloons don’t fly every day. They don’t fly in the afternoon or evening. And third and maybe most importantly, you don’t come to Cappadocia only for the balloons.

The landscape here is really magical. Small villages and cave houses carved into rock are nestled naturally into the terrain. On the hillsides you can see homes hidden inside massive stone chimneys. But what makes this place special are the multi-level underground settlements. These are real underground cities. Some go down as far as ten levels. And no one knows how many exist, because new ones are still being discovered.

Why would people build cities underground? As it turns out there are very logical reasons. First the stone here is a soft volcanic rock called tuff. It crumbles by hand, but when exposed to air, it hardens and becomes durable. It’s like a natural construction miracle. Also, there aren’t many trees in the area, so building with wood was nearly impossible. People made the best of what they had. Another reason is tradition. People have lived in caves here for thousands of years. While the summer heat blazes outside, the inside of these caves stays cool. Some are still used today as storage spaces. So everything here developed both intelligently and through long-standing habits.

If they were built in the right location, their indoor temperatures stay around 13 degrees in winter and 25 in summer. Meanwhile outside in Cappadocia, it can drop to minus 20 in winter and rise to 40 in summer. This makes the caves perfect not only for living but also for storing goods. Today, several of these underground cities are open to tourists. I highly recommend visiting at least one of them.

Of course, there’s much more to Cappadocia than underground cities. For me, the biggest discovery was the incredible number of valleys, each with surreal and distinct landscapes. Every valley stands out with its own shapes, size and accessibility. They spread across the region like a spiderweb, creating endless hiking routes.

One of the features that makes Cappadocia’s scenery so special is the towering stone pillars shaped entirely by nature. Around two to three thousand years ago, water and wind gradually eroded the rock, leaving behind these columns. In Turkish, they have a very interesting name, fairy chimneys. Most valleys are named based on the shapes of these formations.

We visited Love valley. There are four different valleys around Göreme that follow this theme. You can probably guess why it’s called Love valley just by looking at the shapes of the chimneys. Among the others is Monk valley, where monks once lived in seclusion. Pigeon valley gets its name from the hundreds of pigeon nests carved into the cliffs. Pigeon droppings were used as fertilizer in this barren region. There’s also Imagination valley. here, the rocks resemble animals. It’s fun to walk around and try to guess what each one looks like.

We went hiking in Love valley. The starting point is very close to Göreme and Uçhisar Castle. Uçhisar is the highest historical watchtower in Cappadocia. In the past, it could be accessed through a 100-meter tunnel carved into the mountain. This tunnel was used during sieges to maintain access to water and communication with the outside. The region came under Ottoman rule in the 15th century and gradually became more populated. But when too many cave houses were altered, the structure weakened and people began moving to the plains. Today, you can still climb to the top of the castle and enjoy breathtaking views.

That’s where I started my hike. The route through Love valley is around 4 to 5 kilometers long. Some parts are difficult and at times you almost have to climb. So wearing comfortable shoes is essential.

I cannot describe the beauty of this valley. It begins with a narrow passageway, then opens into a canyon surrounded by massive stone columns. Even if you can’t hike down into the valley, you can still walk up from Göreme and enjoy the view from above. The scenery is stunning. My most unforgettable moments in Cappadocia were during these hikes, whether in daylight, at sunrise or sunset, they were all magical. I strongly recommend making time for these walks.

Forty years ago Cappadocia was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list. From that moment, tourists began flocking here from around the world. Hotels and restaurants opened and tourist routes were created. Life in Cappadocia changed fundamentally. The most expensive hotels were built inside ancient cave homes. The more affordable ones were located closer to the plains.

I was genuinely surprised by the hotels in Cappadocia. I expected some drawbacks because of its remote location, but it turned out to be one of the best places I’ve ever stayed. The rooms were decorated in a traditional style. The walls were made of local stone and every detail was thoughtfully designed. Even the electrical switches were aesthetically hidden. There was a spacious bathroom with high-quality equipment. And this was one of the most budget-friendly hotels.

Nearly all the hotels have panoramic rooftop terraces. That means you can stay in a beautiful place for a very reasonable price. There is no all-inclusive system here, only breakfast. But it’s delicious. Breakfast is served on a glass-covered veranda with a beautiful view. You can watch both the sunrise and sunset here. And watching the balloons take off feels like a dream.

When people think of Cappadocia, the first thing that comes to mind is hot air balloons. They fly here all year round. In good weather and during peak season, more than 200 balloons can take off at the same time. It’s hard to imagine Cappadocia without them now. But interestingly, balloon flights are actually quite recent here. The first hot air balloon was brought to the region in 1992 by two German entrepreneurs. The idea quickly gained popularity. Over time, many companies were founded and balloon tours became widespread. Today they are a symbol of the region.

Flight prices vary depending on the season. Mine cost 120 euros. Not exactly cheap, but sometimes it goes up to 200 euros. So that information was reassuring. All balloons fly only early in the morning, at sunrise. At around 5:30 am, shuttle vehicles pick you up from your hotel and take you to the launch site. This usually takes about 10 to 15 minutes. One important detail here is that the valley you fly over depends entirely on the launch point. Balloons don’t travel far. They rise and descend within the same area. So if you want to see a specific place, you should ask the company before booking your flight.

When we arrived at the launch site, it was still dark. Each company was preparing its own balloon. Watching the inflation process was impressive. The distinctive sound of the gas spreading through the valleys gives you chills, partly from excitement and partly from the morning cold. When the balloon stands upright, you meet the pilot, receive a brief explanation and then the burner fires and you are in the air.

What surprised me most when I first got into the balloon was how stable it was. We usually expect anything related to flying to be shaky or bumpy. But here, you stand completely still. There is no swaying to the sides. The second surprising thing was the silence. There is no engine noise, no propellers. Just the occasional blast of the burner. Other than that, perfect stillness.

The most magical moment was takeoff. You lift off the ground without the slightest jolt. It feels like a dream, like floating in a toy balloon. There is no wind, no shaking, only peace.

We reached an altitude of 1400 meters. The cold becomes noticeably stronger up there, but the view is unbelievable. The sun rises right in front of you. You can even feel the pressure in your ears. It was significantly colder up high compared to the valleys.

I should also add a note about the cold. I strongly recommend everyone to wear warm clothes. This applies not only to the flight itself but also to the time you spend waiting before takeoff and the walks afterward. They bring you to the launch area 30 to 40 minutes in advance and you might have to stand around in just a few degrees of temperature.

During the flight you feel less cold than expected because the large gas burner works frequently and spreads pleasant warmth. Still I recommend wearing your thickest shoes, because you remain standing still for a long time and the floor is quite cold.

A standard flight lasts about an hour and a half. Then the balloon slowly descends and lands gently right onto a pickup truck trailer. After landing, everyone is congratulated for a successful flight, flight certificates are handed out and a celebration takes place.

Although when I say celebration, I don’t mean champagne. In our case, it was a light cocktail made from fruit juice mixed with a bit of champagne. After the flight, we stayed for a while to watch the other balloons land. For those staying only two or three days in Cappadocia, this is a great opportunity. It might be the only chance to see the balloons.

Balloons don’t fly every day and only take off in the early morning. That’s why everyone advises booking your flight in advance and never leaving it to the last day. No one knows until evening whether the next morning’s flight will go ahead. Because of cancellations due to bad weather, demand builds up and flights get booked out quickly.

We were very lucky. Two of our three days were suitable for flying. But if we had come from Tuesday to Thursday, we might not have seen any balloons at all. Still, if you don’t get the chance to fly, don’t be too disappointed. The best views are from the many scenic hills around town. You can climb any one of them and watch the balloons pass so close that it feels like you could touch them. Or you can stay at your hotel and watch the sunrise from the terrace, taking in the beauty from above as the balloons glide over the city.

So why don’t they fly in the afternoon or at sunset? Wouldn’t everyone prefer to sleep a little more and fly in warmer, more comfortable conditions? All the answers I received point to two main reasons. First, the balloon rises more easily when the morning air is colder. Second, flights are safer in the morning because the wind is usually calmer. Still, with so much demand, money and infrastructure, I don’t fully understand why evening flights don’t happen. Maybe you know the answer. Feel free to share, because I still don’t get it.

Now let’s talk a bit about how to see the highlights of Cappadocia in a single day. Local tour companies offer two main types of tours: the Green Tour and the Red Tour. The Green Tour is a bit more popular. That’s the one I chose. To be honest, it had been a long time since I joined an organized tour, as I usually prefer to do things on my own. But the price was reasonable and the tour included several places that would be difficult to visit independently in a single day.

The first stop was the Göreme panorama point. A brief but interesting overview of Cappadocia’s history was given here. Then we moved on to the most unnecessary stop, a local jewelry store. Maybe some people enjoy this, but I hope they stop including it.

Next was the Pigeon valley viewpoint, followed by the most fascinating site of the day, the underground city. With all the details shared by the guide, it was very impressive. The visit lasted about 30 to 40 minutes. It was short but definitely worth seeing. If you go on your own, you can spend more time and absorb the atmosphere better. Directional arrows guide you through the maze of tunnels. Red ones lead down, blue ones show the way out.

Then we moved on to a massive canyon, visited the remains of an old church and continued with a walk through the valley. Honestly, our group didn’t quite understand why we went there. The next stop was another giant pigeon house. It was nice, impressive even, but not much different from the many large pigeon houses around Göreme.

After another 40-minute drive, we arrived at the most unnecessary stop, a dessert and souvenir shop. There was a tasting, but prices were high and it felt like a waste of time. That was the end of the Green Tour. Overall the impression was mixed. There were beautiful sights and important places like the underground city, but also a lot of time was wasted on pointless stops. I only recommend this tour to people with very limited time or those who don’t want to deal with transportation and ticket logistics. But if you are ready to explore on your own, renting a car will give you a much richer experience. Or you can hitchhike. The locals are very friendly. We hitchhiked twice and saved a lot of time.

Even though there are many tourists, transportation is still a challenge. To get from one place to another, you usually have to either rent a car or take a taxi. Otherwise, you will end up walking along the roadside, because public transport is almost nonexistent. But for hiking, the region offers incredible possibilities. Local tours make the most of this with horseback riding, ATV rides and jeep safaris. Retro car photo shoots are also very popular. But in my opinion, the best thing is still to explore on your own.

Riding in a balloon and hiking through the valleys, especially Love valley and Red valley, were surreal experiences. I highly recommend them. Two or three days is enough for a first visit. But you can stay a week if you like. Though after five or six days, you might get used to the views and feel a bit bored. Or maybe I’m wrong. Perhaps it is worth coming back again.

These were the feelings I experienced. I hope you enjoyed this journey. Thank you for reading.