Maha Shivaratri – the largest pilgrimage that takes place on the island of Mauritius

On the 27th of Februar believers of the Hindu faith were celebrated the Maha Shivaratri festival - The Great Night of Shiva. This is a once in the year festival that takes place around the world. On the island of Mauritius this festival is one of the major celebration among Mauritian Hindus. The date varies each year. It has to be celebrated during the lunar phase when the night sky sees no visible stars. In Mauritius many devotees will make a pilgrimage to the Grand Bassin, located in the center of the island. At this place you will find the sacred lake called Ganga Talao. Believers of the Hindu faith will be walking to the lake. Some will have to start several days before the actual date in order to get there in time. I took the photos the day before the festival since I was in Vacaos. This place is not far from the lake itself. The road I was walking leads directly to Grand Bassin. I did not go the lake. On the news I learned it is estimated that around 300.000 devotees wold come to the lake. I have included photos though, from previous visits. On the first photo you will see Lord Shiva, the god of destruction and regenration. This huge statue is located at the entrance to Grand Bassin.

Lake Ganga Talao and the pilgrimage

The photos are showing devotees I met on my way. They are returning from Grand Bassin. They walk to the Grand Bassin to collect sacred water from the lake Ganga Talao. They will then bring the water back to their communities.The pilgrimage will start several days before the celebration. Depending on where they live and how many days they need for the walk. As you see on the photos, they are carring «kanwars» built for this celebration. Some are carried on the shoulders. Others are on wheels, that they pull. A whole team is following, so that they can take turns of carrying. A car with loud music would drive slowly in front of the group. That gave me a real festival wibe.

I was quite facinated by the kanwars. They are absolutely gorgeous. So much creativity! The size of many are impressive. A visuel feast for the eyes. I must admid that I took a lot of photos that day. These structures are heavy and the fact that of some of these groups walk for days under the tropical sun or rain, does impress. They sleep outside ( I saw some small tents) and then they keep on walking the next day. After the collection of sacred water, they will do the same walk back to their communities.

A place to get food and drinks

A soft sweet

Another custom in Mauritius are the tents set up along the streets. The pilgrims are offered food and drinks and a chair to rest on. As it vouldn't be polite to take photos of tents with resting pilgrimes, I chose to take photo of one that was empty. Even I, who are not a devotee of the Hindu faith, recieved both food and water when I passed two of the tents. A little boy was standing outside a tent offered sweets. At another tent a woman waved at me to let me know to come to the tent ( I was on the opposite side of the street). She gave me a bottle of water and a small paper sack with a warm deep-fried vegetable kind of snack. A lovely gesture.

In general, I only met kindness that day. People I passed would greet me. As you see on some of the photos, pilgrims smiled or wawed their hands towards me. I started by asking if I could take photos of this man, and he told me to come over and up front to take a close up photo. A car that passed me, slowed down and a man said "happy..." and a word I didn't understand. This was really a day of kindness and a happy wibe. When they reach Ganga Talao, they make prayers and pour sacred water on the Shiva lingam – a sacred stone that is a representation of Shiva. On the night of the full moon devotees will do prayers. They will then springle the Shiva lingam with milk, sacred water, honey and sugar ( I saw this ritual on the local television).

The Maha Shivarati festival is a celebration of Shiva marrying Parvati. It is also said that this was the night when Shiva performed a dance of destruction and preservation. By doing so, he saved the world. It is also said that in order to protect the worl, he drank poison on this day. Among the Hindu divinities Shiva is the main god. He is a god who takes many forms. He is the master of both poison and medicine. Notice the snake around his neck on the first photo. Symbolising his power over snakes.

Lord Shiva at the entrance to Grand Bassin

Grand Bassin and Ganga Talao

The lake is actually a crater lake. The island was created by volcanic activity. This place is seen as the most sacred place for the Hindus in Mauritius. The name Ganga Talao derives from Ganges, the sacred river in India.

You will find temples here. The temple called Shiv Mandir is dedicated to Shiva, but there are other temples. Some of the deities are standing in the lake. It is a lovely place to visit. I have been here several times.

In the days before the festival you will see pilgrims everywhere. On my return to Grand Baie by bus (where I am currently staying), I was met with music and returning pilgrimes in festival mood.

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All the photoes are mine, Ulla Jensen (flickr, Instagram and facebook)

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