step-by-step how to cut and sew perfect Cowl Bubu Kaftan dress

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How to Cut and Sew an Ankara Cowl Bubu Kaftan with Front Slit and Aso-oke Front Design

A cowl bubu kaftan with a front slit and aso-oke panel is an elegant African outfit that combines comfort, class, and cultural beauty. The cowl neckline gives a draped effect, while the aso-oke front adds richness and texture. Here’s a detailed step-by-step guide on how to cut and sew it perfectly using Ankara and aso-oke fabric.

Materials Needed

4–5 yards of Ankara fabric (depending on your size and desired length)

1 yard of Aso-oke for the front panel

Sewing machine and matching thread

Scissors, measuring tape, chalk, pins, and ruler

Bias tape or facing for neckline finishing

Step 1: Measurement and Preparation

Take your body measurements accurately. You’ll need:

Shoulder 16

Bust 38

Hip 41

Kaftan length 60

Sleeve length 18

Fold your Ankara fabric into two equal parts lengthwise, with the wrong side facing out. This fold represents the center front and center back.

Step 2: Cutting the Kaftan Shape

Mark the neckline – On the folded edge, front neckline I used 3 inches for the width, depth of 7 inches V shape back neckline 3 by 1.5 round.

The sleeves will be cut together with the main bodice. After taking the shoulder measurement I add up my desire sleeve length then come down by 1 inch for the slope and connect to the neckline.To achieve the cowl side effect, extend your armhole out widely—about 15 to 18 inches from the fold—depending on how free you want the sides. Curve the armhole down softly toward the hip also cut out lining the same way I cut the main fabric.

Step 3: Adding the Front Slit

Mark the center front line and decide how long you want the slit (usually from knee level upward).
From the down of the dress mark I up 21inch that is where the slit opening will stop Use scissors to carefully cut along that line.

Step 4: stitches process

To attach Aso-oke to the front of a bubu kaftan, to achieve this beautiful design at the front area I make use of one piece of aso-oke . Fold into two then place the font dress to shape out the neck area and it cut .

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‎Gently Place the Aso-oke in the center front area where you want the design front to stop, ensuring it aligns neatly. Pin it in place to prevent shifting. Sew the edges securely using a straight stitches. Press with an iron to smoothen the seam before sewing up the lining to the front and back dress. Finally, join the front and back pieces of the kaftan together. Cut out 3 inches length of Ankara for the sleeve area

Step 5: Finishing

Join the side seams using a straight stitch, leaving arm openings as desired. Hem the bottom and sleeves neatly. Press the entire outfit with a warm iron for a smooth finish with lovely cover button.

Front and back view

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