A Comforting Bowl of Bak Kut Teh at Upper Cross Street

Yesterday, I was feeling extra nostalgic, so I headed to Chinatown for a slow wander through the night market. There’s something about that area after sunset, the lights, the chatter, the random little finds, that hits differently. It’s lively, but also a little chaotic, and honestly… it can be tiring in the best way. The kind of tired where your feet ache, your shoulders relax, and your stomach suddenly reminds you that walking is basically cardio. 😂

Somewhere in the middle of my walk, I made a detour to Upper Cross Street to look for hawker stalls that were still open. I already expected the usual reality: late night means shutters down, tables half-empty, and only a handful of stalls still hanging on. And yep, many of the stalls were already closed. But not all. A few lights were still on, and the place still had that comforting hawker-center hum: clinking bowls, a faint smell of soup and sauces, and people quietly enjoying their supper without rushing.

That’s when I spotted Morning Bak Kut Teh.

Bak Kut Teh is one of those dishes I crave once in a while, not all the time, but when the mood hits, it hits hard. And this one looked like the herbal kind, with that darker soup that feels like it’s been simmering patiently for hours. The stall also gave me “old-school” vibes, like it’s been there forever and the people running it have done this so many times it’s basically muscle memory. You know that feeling when you trust a stall before even tasting the food? That was me.

When my bowl arrived, it looked simple and honest: pork ribs sitting in a deep, dark herbal broth, paired with a bowl of rice and a small saucer of dipping sauce on the side. Nothing fancy, no unnecessary garnish… just straight-up comfort.

First thing I noticed: the meat.

The tenderness was seriously on point. It wasn’t the kind that falls apart instantly (which can be nice too), but it had the perfect balance, soft enough to bite through easily, yet still firm enough to feel satisfying. I loved that texture. It felt like the stall knew exactly when to stop simmering so the meat stays enjoyable and not mushy.

Then came the soup, and honestly… it was so slurpable.

It wasn’t overpowering. Not too strong, not overly seasoned, and not trying too hard to impress. It was just nice, warm, soothing, and smooth. The herbal taste was present, but it didn’t punch you in the face. It felt like the kind of broth you can keep drinking without getting tired of it, especially when you’re already worn out from walking around Chinatown.

One of my favorite parts of eating Bak Kut Teh is how you can make it your own, and I did my usual move: pouring the soup over my rice. That’s a simple joy right there. The rice softens, it absorbs the broth, and suddenly every spoonful tastes like comfort. Add a little dip from the sauce on the side, and you’ve got this rhythm going, sip, bite, dip, repeat.

Overall, it’s a simple dish, but it’s the kind of simple that works. No complaints at all. Just a satisfying meal that felt like a reward after a long walk.

I’ll definitely be back. The hawker center may not be huge, and late-night options can be limited, but the whole place has that nostalgic effect that makes you want to explore again, one stall at a time.

Bon appétit.

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